Decoding Viking Clothing: Beyond the Myths

The popular image we have of Vikings, often clad in horned helmets and rough furs, is far from the historical reality. Viking clothing was a sophisticated expression of their identity, social status, and wealth. Far from being simple or uniform, the clothing of these Nordic peoples, who lived between the late 8th and early 11th centuries, reflected their advanced craftsmanship and extensive trade networks.

Scandinavian peoples in Northern Europe wore very similar clothing: Vikings usually wore tunics, trousers, and shirts with different patterns and decorations. They used various fabrics and ensured their clothes were not too tight on the body so as not to hinder movement.

The Fabric of Life: Materials and Production of Viking Clothing

The Vikings were masters of using natural resources to craft their garments. The main materials for their Viking clothing were wool and linen, chosen for their durability and availability in Nordic regions. These materials formed the foundation of daily attire, offering protection and comfort in various weather conditions.

Wool: The Essential Fiber

**Wool** was the most important material due to its versatility, warmth, and resilience. It maintains its insulating properties even when wet, which was crucial for sailors and fishermen in harsh northern conditions. Sheep at the time were mainly white, so most of the wool was this color, serving as a base for dyes.

Linen: Lightness and Comfort

**Linen**, light, cool, and comfortable to the touch, was obtained from flax plant fibers. It was ideal for underwear and lighter summer garments. Its production was more labor-intensive than wool, making it more costly and often reserved for the wealthier classes. This already gives us a clue about the social status that could be inferred from Viking clothing.

Furs, Leathers, and Silk: Luxuries and Necessities

In addition to wool and linen, Vikings also used **furs and leathers** for outerwear like coats and collars, offering extra protection against harsh weather. Leather was essential for footwear, belts, and bags. **Silk**, a luxury imported from distant places like Byzantium or the East, was a sign of opulence and was used sparingly as decorative trim on the garments of the elite. Silk and linen were costlier, as they had to be imported and only the wealthiest could afford them in bright colors.

The Art of Colors and Dyes in Viking Clothing

Contrary to popular belief, Viking clothing was colorful, though the natural dyes they used tended to fade over time. Vikings mastered the art of dyeing, extracting colors from plants, berries, lichens, minerals, and even insects.

Viking Color Palette

• Blue: Mainly obtained from woad (or pastel).
• Red: Extracted from madder or, for the most valuable dyes, from cochineal.
• Yellow: Produced with weld, birch leaves, or onion skins.
• Green: A combination of blue and yellow dyes.
• Brown and Black: Using walnut shells, oak bark, or iron-rich muds.

The quality and intensity of color in clothing were clear indicators of social status. Bright and rare colors were reserved for the upper classes, while common people wore more natural or muted tones. Colors also had symbolic meaning: red was associated with power and wealth, blue with the gods, and green with fertility. Vikings were attracted to brightly colored garments and shiny beads, revealing a society with a developed aesthetic sense.

Weaving and Construction Techniques of Viking Garments

The Vikings were skilled weavers, using various techniques to produce durable and visually appealing fabrics. The warp-weighted loom (vertical loom with weights) was common in Nordic homes. Techniques included tabby weave (the simplest), twill (more complex, for strong fabrics), and herringbone (a twill variation creating distinctive V-shaped patterns). They also practiced *nålebinding*, an ancient manual needle binding technique predating knitting and crochet, to make flexible garments.

Garment construction was cleverly done to minimize fabric waste, prioritizing functionality and durability. Sewing was performed with bone or metal needles, and embroidery with colored wool, linen, or silk threads served as decorative elements and status indicators. Old clothes weren’t thrown away but decorated with sewn-on bands and colors changed over time, according to a study conducted on remains found in Viking graves, demonstrating a great sense of sustainability and appreciation for their garments.

Viking Men’s Clothing: Functionality and Status

Viking clothing for men combined practicality with a reflection of their social position, adapting to the demands of daily life and travel.

Tunic (Kyrtill) and Undershirt

The **tunic (Kyrtill)** was the central garment in men’s Viking clothing, made of wool or linen, reaching the knees. Underneath, an undershirt was worn, usually linen. Tunics could feature simple decorations on sleeves and collar, or woven trims, indicating the owner’s status and wealth.

Viking Trousers: Variety and Versatility

There was a wide variety of trousers in the Viking Age. They were usually close-fitting and made of wool, held at the waist by a belt or cord. There were straight-cut (“Thorsberg”) or baggy types, with or without pleats, and they might reach the feet or not. To protect against cold, damp, or snow, bands or leggings were used, functioning as wraps, reaching down to the heels.

Trousers lacked pockets and a fly and were fastened with a belt, which was decorated for special occasions and also served as a distinctive element of their Viking clothing.

Leg Wraps or Bands (Rastrojeras/Winningas)

They were wrapped from the ankles to the base of the knees, made of wool and fastened with a brooch or woven band. They provided protection, warmth, and extra support, being a practical and necessary component of Viking clothing for daily wear.

Cloaks and Mantles: Protection and Symbol

**Cloaks and mantles** were long, thick, and heavy, fastened at the right shoulder with strong straps or a brooch (fibula), leaving the right hand free for weapons or tools. They were important for weather protection and as status symbols. The cloak was a simple rectangular piece of woven wool or the fur of furry animals, used to protect against cold and rain. The cloak was fastened with a needle or brooch that could be made of bone or precious metals with Viking motifs.

Footwear and Accessories

**Sturdy leather shoes and boots** were the most common. They were often made from a single piece of leather using the “turnshoe” technique to make them waterproof. They were treated with fat or oil to keep them supple and repel water. Socks to protect feet from cold and damp were made of wool.

**Viking belts** were made of leather and could be decorated with silver or bronze buckles. Essential utensils like a knife and a leather or cloth pouch were attached to the belt. As trousers did not have pockets, a pouch was needed to keep utensils, making the belt an indispensable accessory in Viking clothing.

**Hats** were also made of wool, furry skins, or leather and came in a variety of designs. Gloves and shoes of these materials were also worn.

Viking Women’s Clothing: Beauty and Social Role

Viking clothing for women also balanced functionality with style and status indication, highlighting the importance of the feminine role in Nordic society.

Shift or Under Dress

A long garment, often down to the ankles, made of linen or wool, served as a base. Some Viking women wore underwear, such as a long shift, over which they donned a long dress decorated with silver and gold threads that reached their feet, signifying wealth and social position.

Overdress (Hangerock)

Worn over the under dress, sleeveless, usually woollen. It was distinguished by its straps, fastened at the front with artistically decorated brooches or pins. These brooches were not only for fastening, but were also significant jewelry and status symbols within women’s Viking clothing.

Cloaks, Shawls, and Aprons

In the colder months, women wore a cloak or shawl for protection. **Aprons** were practical for daily life, protected clothing during chores, and could be decorated with embroidery or trims for festive occasions.

Headdresses and Veils

Married women usually covered their heads with **linen or silk headdresses**, the quality of which indicated their social position. There is also evidence of hats or caps for outdoor activities, adding to the complexity of Viking clothing.

Belt and Bag

Similar to men, women wore a leather belt from which they suspended a bag and a knife. Objects for daily use were sometimes hung from the brooches fastening their dress, highlighting the practicality and need for keeping belongings close at hand.

Jewelry and Accessories: Beyond Decoration

Viking jewelry was not just ornamental; it had practical, symbolic, and economic functions. More evidence of jewelry than clothing has been found, as metal survives time better. These accessories complemented Viking clothing and were often more durable than the clothes themselves.

The Five Main Functions of Viking Jewelry

1. Aesthetic ornament: To enhance personal appearance.
2. Accessories for fastening clothing and/or holding items: Functional elements.
3. Symbol of belief and protection: Spiritual connection.
4. Indicator of social or economic status: Reflected the owner’s wealth and position.
5. Means of payment in trade: Especially neck rings and hack silver.

Materials varied according to social class: the wealthy could afford bronze, silver (most common), and gold jewelry, sometimes adorned with pearls, crystals, and precious stones. The less wealthy used common metals, amber, or glass.

Pins and Brooches (Fibulae)

They were the main means of fastening clothing. Their design could turn them into symbols of wealth, status, and religion. Oval brooches were popular in the 9th and early 10th centuries, replaced by disc-shaped brooches in the 10th century. Turtle brooches were typical of the Viking era and a distinctive element in Viking clothing.

Necklaces and Amulets

Vikings wore necklaces and solid metal neck rings (torcs), often used as currency. Necklaces typically featured pendants with symbolic designs, intended to provide protection and support. Thor’s Hammer (Mjolnir) was by far the most popular amulet. Other symbols included round pendants (solar star), miniature tools (activity/fertility), crosses (with Christianization), Odin’s spear (Gungnir), and representations of the thrones of Thor and Odin, or Valkyries.

Clothing as a Symbol of Status

Viking clothing was a powerful reflection of an individual’s social status. *Jarls* (leaders) and the wealthy wore garments made of fine fabrics, often imported and combined with local materials, decorated with elaborate embroidery, valuable brooches, and fibulae. Viking trade routes, which stretched from North America to the Caspian Sea, greatly influenced their fashion, leading to a blend of styles and techniques. In contrast, free peasants and artisans wore simpler, locally produced garments, though they also valued adornments, albeit to a lesser extent. The attraction to quality clothing and the modification of their garments throughout their lives to remain fashionable demonstrates a sophistication that is often overlooked.

What Do We Know Today? Sources and Archaeology of Viking Clothing

Our knowledge of Viking attire comes from various sources, allowing us to accurately reconstruct what Viking clothing was like:

Archaeological Finds

Although organic materials deteriorate easily and not a single complete example of Viking clothing has been found, textile fragments have survived. Discoveries in ship burials such as Oseberg and Gokstad have preserved textile remains revealing details about materials, weaving techniques, and patterns. Other important sites include Hedeby and Birka, providing valuable information about Viking clothing.

Contemporary Descriptions

Icelandic sagas and the accounts of Arab travelers, such as Ibn Fadlan, provide valuable details about Nordic clothing, complementing archaeological findings.

Pictorial Representations

Picture stones (especially in Gotland) and miniatures in medieval manuscripts offer visual clues, although these must always be examined critically due to the artistic license of the era.

Modern Historical Reenactment of Viking Clothing

Today, historical reenactment of Viking attire aims for the utmost fidelity to archaeological findings and historical texts. A distinction is made between “Western Vikings” (Norwegians and Danes) and “Eastern Vikings” (Swedes and Rus’), as their clothing and armor showed differences due to trade routes and cultural influences. For example, in the context of Viking raids in the Iberian Peninsula, these were considered mainly of Norwegian or Danish origin, so elements of Slavic or Eastern influence are not considered authentic for such reenactments.

Viking clothing, far from being simple or uniform, was a complex manifestation of their society, economy, and beliefs. It reflected their ingenuity, adaptability, and a keen sense of aesthetics and symbolism. Through the study of their fabrics, garments, and adornments, we gain deeper insight into a rich and multifaceted culture that valued both function and beauty in every thread. If you’re looking for the best Viking clothing for historical reenactment or simply for an authentic style, browse our selection and find pieces that will transport you to the era of the great Nordic navigators.

VISIT OUR VIKING SHOP

SEE MORE VIKING AND MEDIEVAL CLOTHING