Unveiling the Medieval Shirt: A Journey Through Its History, Style, and Significance

The Middle Ages, a fascinating period spanning a thousand years of history, left us an incredibly rich cultural legacy, and its fashion is no exception. When we think of medieval clothing, we often picture shining armor, long tunics, or sumptuous dresses, but there is a fundamental garment that held the entire outfit together, for both nobles and commoners: the medieval shirt.

Far from being a simple piece of fabric, the shirt was an essential component of daily life and a reflection of the society of its time. Its evolution tells a story of technological advances, social structures, and cultural values.

Beyond Appearance: What Was a Medieval Shirt?

In the Middle Ages, the shirt, often known as an undergarment, was the base layer of clothing. It was worn directly on the skin and served vital functions:

• Skin protection: It prevented direct contact with outer fabrics, which were often rougher or coarser.
• Thermal regulation: It helped keep the body warm in winter and cool in summer, thanks to its absorbent properties.
• Hygiene: It absorbed sweat and body moisture, protecting the more valuable outer layers from dirt and wear.

The terminology could vary regionally (such as ‘chemise’, ‘cotte’, or ‘inner tunic’), but its main purpose was always the same. It is important to note that, historically, shirts as we know them today, with more defined cuts and worn as outer garments, began to gain popularity towards the end of the Middle Ages, especially when trousers became tighter and blouses shorter. They became indispensable during the Renaissance. Before that, tunics were the dominant upper-body garment.

Shirts and blouses are both formal and informal garments made of fabric that cover the torso and usually have a collar, sleeves, and buttons on the front.

The shirt gets its name from the Arabic qamis, which derives from the Latin camisia. The history of the shirt can be traced back to 1500 BC, when Egyptians, both men and women, adopted the kalasiris, a rectangular piece of thin linen fabric with an opening for the head. This basic garment laid the foundation for what, centuries later, would evolve into the medieval shirt we know. Its simplicity and functionality allowed it to endure through various cultures and historical periods.

The Evolution of Clothing: From Tunic to Shirt

Medieval fashion was not static; it changed and adapted over the centuries, reflecting not only aesthetic trends but also advances in tailoring techniques and the practical needs of society.

Early Middle Ages (c. 500-1000 AD): Functional Simplicity

During this period, clothing was predominantly simple and functional. Men usually wore short tunics that reached the knees, combined with hose to cover the legs. Clothing was loose, made mainly from rectangular pieces of fabric, and fitted to the body with belts. The shirt, at this stage, was indistinguishable from an inner tunic, serving as the first layer of protection and comfort.

High Middle Ages (c. 1000-1250 AD): Towards Sophistication

Over time, tunics began to lengthen, reaching the ankles. This change marked a trend towards more formal and structured clothing. Thanks to improved tailoring techniques, clothing began to fit the body more closely, allowing for more defined and elegant silhouettes. The shirt, although still an undergarment, began to subtly differ in its cut and construction from outer tunics.

Late Middle Ages (c. 1250-1500 AD): The Rise of Tailoring

The Late Middle Ages was a period of great innovation in fashion. Clothing became more elaborate and fitted, marking a clear distinction between inner and outer layers. Doublets (fitted upper garments) and tight hose became popular, which meant that the shirt, although still an undergarment, acquired more defined cuts. It could have puffed sleeves, fitted cuffs, or be tailored with lacing. The most traditional shirts were loose, with wide sleeves and a flared skirt, reaching mid-thigh. Another variant, especially towards the end of the period, was more fitted and short, sometimes with a pointed finish covering the groin and adjusted with side or back laces.

During the Roman Empire, sleeves were added to this piece of fabric, and it was called tunica manicata. In the Middle Ages and up to the 14th century, the shirt was a white undergarment whose function was to protect the skin from other, rougher outer fabrics. As it was considered underwear, it lacked buttons for closure and its purpose was to cover the body before putting on the jacket or doublet. This barrier function between the skin and outer garments was crucial for hygiene and the preservation of more expensive clothing.

The widespread use of shirts in the 14th century, especially the increase in linen production and its subsequent disposal, meant there was enough rag from old shirts to make paper at affordable prices. The invention of the printing press, combined with the production of cheap paper, allowed the book to emerge as an accessible product, no longer a curiosity reserved for the few. This fact highlights how a garment as seemingly humble as the medieval shirt had an indirect but significant impact on the spread of knowledge and culture.

It was during the Renaissance that the shirt became widely used, transcending its role as mere underwear to become a visible and stylistic element. Italian fashion of the time widened the sleeves, allowing part of them to show at the elbows, creating an effect of volume and elegance. This marked the beginning of the shirt as a garment with its own aesthetic value.

Later, the Germans would introduce slashes, a fashion originating in Switzerland that consisted of slashing the surface of outer garments to reveal what was underneath, thus exposing the inner shirt. This detail, which seems bold to us today, was a fashion statement at the time, showing off the richness of the inner fabrics. In the 16th century, square necklines were added, giving another dimension to shirt design.

During and after the French Revolution, towards the end of the 18th century, a major change occurred in men’s clothing. Clean lines, characteristic of English attire, appeared, which meant the loss of previous ornamentation and the beginning of the shirt as we know it today, as an essential and versatile outer garment.

Materials: A Reflection of Status and Daily Life

The materials used in the making of medieval shirts were a clear indicator of the user’s social position, as well as the availability of resources and textile technology of the time. The choice of fabric not only affected comfort and durability, but also the status and overall appearance of the garment.

Linen: The King of Underwear

Linen was, without a doubt, the most common and versatile material for shirts. Its production was laborious, from growing the flax plant to spinning and weaving, but the result was a strong, durable fiber that was very pleasant to the touch. It was ideal for underwear due to its ability to absorb moisture and dry quickly, making it perfect for personal hygiene at a time when bathing was not a widespread daily practice.

• Qualities: The quality of linen varied greatly, from coarse and thick linen suitable for the work clothes of peasants and artisans, to fine and almost transparent fabrics of astonishing delicacy, reserved for luxury garments that only the wealthiest could afford. The fineness of the fabric was an unmistakable sign of wealth and distinction.
• Natural color: It was often used unbleached, giving it a natural grayish or brownish tone. Bleached linen, which required additional washing and sun exposure, was a subtle but clear symbol of status and the ability to keep clothes clean and well cared for.

Wool: Warmth in Inner Layers

Although linen dominated for shirts in direct contact with the skin, wool was also used, especially in colder regions or for inner layers that provided more warmth. Wool offered superior warmth and was relatively water-resistant, making it valuable in adverse climates. Its quality varied greatly, from coarse and rough wool for the common people to fine and soft cloth for the elite, often imported from regions with high-quality wool production.

Silks and Cotton: Imported Luxury

For the high nobility and the very wealthy, fine silk shirts were not unusual. Silk, coming from the Far East via the Silk Road, was an extremely valuable luxury material, a symbol of opulence and exoticism. Its shine, softness, and lightness made it the preferred choice for ceremonial and gala garments.

Cotton also gained importance at the end of the Middle Ages, especially in warmer areas, although it was still more expensive and scarce than linen in most of Europe. Its softness and absorbency made it desirable, but its high import cost limited its use to the wealthier classes.

Colors and Symbolism: The Medieval Palette

Contrary to popular belief, medieval clothing was not limited to dark or earthy tones. Colors had deep social and symbolic meaning, and their choice was not random, but reflected the status, profession, morality, and even the political or religious affiliation of the wearer.

• Natural dyes: Colors were obtained from a wide variety of natural sources: plants (such as weld for yellow, madder for red, indigo or woad for blue), animals (such as cochineal for crimson), and minerals. The dyeing process was complex, required specialized knowledge, and significantly increased the value of the garment, making vibrant colors a luxury.
• Status: The higher the social status, the more vibrant and expensive the clothing tended to be. The brightest and most durable dyes were the most expensive, so only the nobility and wealthy merchants could afford them.
• Common colors and their meaning:
  • White/Natural: Symbolized purity, innocence, and cleanliness. It was very common for shirts as an undergarment, as their whiteness, or the absence of dye, was a sign of good reputation and personal care. A white, well-kept shirt was a mark of decency.
  • Blue: A color associated with royalty, nobility, and divinity (especially the Virgin Mary). It symbolized loyalty, constancy, and truth. Deep blues were particularly valuable.
  • Red: Represented power, strength, passion, love, and sometimes danger or war. It was a popular color among the nobility, wealthy citizens, and high-ranking clergy. Crimson, obtained from cochineal, was one of the most expensive dyes.
  • Green: Associated with nature, youth, hope, and fertility. It could also symbolize the wealth of the land. It was a common color for the clothing of merchants and the middle class.
  • Black: Initially associated with mourning and humility, it evolved in the Late Middle Ages to symbolize elegance, sophistication, and wealth, especially in the Burgundian courts. Deep, long-lasting black dyes were difficult to obtain and therefore very expensive.
  • Gray and Brown: These were the most common colors for the general population, as they were easier to produce with local dyes and less likely to show dirt, making them practical for daily life and work.
• Sumptuary laws: To maintain hierarchical order and control excessive luxury, sumptuary laws regulated which colors, materials, and types of ornamentation could be used by different social classes. These laws dictated, for example, that only the nobility could wear silk or certain vibrant colors, while the common people were restricted to wool and linen in more subdued tones.

Patterns and Design: Functionality and Style

The design of medieval shirts, although seemingly simple at first glance, was the result of careful craftsmanship and constant evolution, adapting to practical needs and fashion trends. Functionality was paramount, but style and adornments also played an important role, especially as the Middle Ages progressed.

• T-shaped cut: The most common basis for making shirts was the T-shaped cut. This design used rectangular pieces of fabric for the body and sleeves, maximizing freedom of movement and optimizing material use, minimizing waste at a time when fabric was precious. Gussets (triangular or square pieces of fabric) were often added under the arms for greater comfort and durability.
• Sleeves: Sleeves could vary considerably. In the Early and High Middle Ages, they were usually wide and straight. By the Late Middle Ages, they became more elaborate, sometimes puffed at the top and tighter on the forearm, with cuffs covering the wrist. Often, sleeves were inserted separately into the body of the shirt, allowing greater flexibility in design and fit.
• Necklines: Necklines were usually simple, finished round or with a vertical opening closed with laces. Sometimes a style called “amigaut” was used, which was a wider neckline that could be gathered or adjusted. The simplicity of the neckline reflected the shirt’s function as an undergarment.
• Fitting: Later shirts, especially at the end of the Late Middle Ages, could incorporate darts or strategically placed gussets to achieve a closer fit to the body, following the general trend of fashion towards more fitted silhouettes. The introduction of buttons and laces, although not as common as in outer garments, allowed for more fitted and figure-enhancing clothing.
• Reinforcements and openings: Despite adornments and evolving style, functionality was paramount. Areas of high wear, such as the collar, cuffs, and underarms, were reinforced to prolong the garment’s life. Strategic openings, often at the neck or sides, were used to make dressing and undressing easier, especially when outer garments were more fitted.
• Adornments: Decorations ranged from simple, carefully sewn hems to elaborate embroidery. These embellishments were applied to visible points such as the collar, cuffs, and hem, which were the parts of the shirt that often peeked out from under outer garments. These decorations, along with the fineness of the fabric and the whiteness of the linen, were clear signs of the wearer’s wealth, taste, and social status. Embroidery could include geometric, floral, or even heraldic motifs for the nobility.

The Shirt in Daily Life and Its Social Significance

The shirt was an omnipresent element in medieval life, a daily-use garment whose importance went beyond mere clothing. Its hygiene, durability, and the care devoted to it were crucial aspects that reflected not only practicality but also status and social values.

Hygiene and Care: A Constant Challenge

Cleanliness was a considerable challenge in the Middle Ages, given the limitations of resources and technology. Shirts, being the layer closest to the skin, absorbed sweat and dirt, making them the main focus of hygiene practices. They were regularly washed in rivers or streams, using lye (an alkaline solution obtained from wood ash) and bleached in the sun to maintain their whiteness. The care of white shirts, in particular, was a sign of decency, cleanliness, and good reputation. A clean and well-maintained shirt was a silent statement about an individual’s character and social position.

Durability and Repair: The Value of the Garment

In an era when clothing was valuable and its production laborious, garments were designed to last. Shirts were constantly repaired and mended to prolong their life. Reinforcing areas of greatest wear, such as cuffs, collar, and underarms, was common practice. Repairs were not only functional; they were often done artistically, with patches and stitches that, far from hiding the damage, were integrated into the garment’s design, showing the skill of the tailor or the person who cared for it at home. This culture of “repair before discard” contrasts sharply with today’s fast fashion mentality.

Changing Clothes: An Indicator of Status

The frequency of changing shirts depended directly on social status and wealth. While wealthy households and the nobility could afford to change shirts daily, or even several times a day, the lower classes often wore the same shirt for days or even weeks, due to the scarcity of garments and the difficulty of washing. This simple act of changing shirts was a visible marker of prosperity and access to resources.

Symbolism and Deeper Meaning

In addition to its practical function, the shirt had deep symbolism. As a garment that touched the skin directly, it represented purity, innocence, and intimacy. The white color of many shirts reinforced this association with physical cleanliness and moral integrity. In the courtly sphere, a fine, well-cared-for shirt, sometimes slightly visible under outer garments, was a symbol of refinement, sophistication, and good taste. It was a foundation on which the public image was built, even if only a small part was visible.

The Medieval Shirt Today: Reenactment and Learning

For history enthusiasts, historical reenactment, and LARP (live action role play), the medieval shirt is a fundamental piece. Understanding authentic materials, cutting patterns, and sewing techniques allows reenactors and artists to create convincing outfits that transport them back in time. This interest has driven a revival of traditional crafts, contributing to the preservation of important cultural skills and the study of medieval daily life.

Ultimately, the medieval shirt is much more than a piece of clothing. It is a witness to time, a canvas on which stories of status, culture, and personal identity were woven. Its study allows us to look beyond the surface and understand the rich complexity of life in the Middle Ages, from textile innovations to social norms and hygiene practices. It is a garment that, although often hidden, was the pillar of clothing and a silent reflection of the society that created it.

If you are passionate about history and the authenticity of period clothing, we invite you to explore our collection. You will find everything from medieval blouses for women with designs inspired by the era, to medieval shirts for men crafted with attention to detail and materials that evoke the essence of those centuries. Immerse yourself in history and find the perfect piece for your medieval outfit or to add a period touch to your wardrobe. Discover our entire range of medieval clothing for men, women, and children and experience history.