Imagine life in the Middle Ages. How did men and women keep their personal belongings when clothing, in general, lacked pockets? The answer is fascinating and complex: the bag, a constant companion since the dawn of civilization, although its shape and function have drastically changed over time. In fact, the use of bags is as old as humanity itself, with indications that nomadic communities already used a type of leather bag, known as Alforje, for gathering food.
Although the bag is a fundamental accessory in our daily lives, its importance in history is often underestimated. Medieval bags are a clear example of how such a simple object can reflect deep social, economic, and artistic transformations throughout history. Join us on this journey to discover the rich history of medieval bags, their evolution, and the role they played in a society without integrated pockets.
A Necessary Complement: Beyond Fashion
In the Middle Ages, bags were not just a fashion accessory, but a practical and almost always hidden necessity. With tight-fitted trousers that made carrying objects impossible, men usually carried small bags or purses fastened to the waist. Women used them too, though with more discretion, often hidden among the folds of their wide dresses, tunics, and cloaks. However, in the Late Middle Ages (11th to 15th centuries), the bag began to be displayed more frequently, adapting to clothing and no longer being merely utilitarian but rather a complement reflecting the owner’s personality and social status.
Among the most beautiful and useful accessories of medieval outfits are bags. Bags are defined as small handheld pouches, generally made of leather, cloth, or other materials, equipped with a closure and often a handle, used for carrying money, documents, personal items, etc. They were first used by men, then by women, and today, both genders use them naturally and practically. For many years, the bag was exclusively used by women (especially during the second half of the 20th century), but nowadays it is commonly used by both men and women.
The best bags are those handmade from genuine leather. They come in all shapes, colors, and sizes. Not only are they useful, but they are also beautiful and always add a touch of elegance and distinction.
Materials and Social Status: The Silent Language of the Bag
The choice of materials for a medieval bag spoke volumes about its owner.
- For daily use, bags were commonly made of deer or pigskin.
- Wealthier classes opted for more sophisticated materials. Byzantine influence, for example, brought the use of silks and gold and silver thread embroidery, and even gemstone decoration for handbags.
- Meanwhile, the influence of peoples conquered by Islam was reflected in increased simplicity, using primarily leather. Among leathers, goatskin was preferred by the wealthy, while cowhide was for the less affluent.
- Peasants, with ingenuity, used any available material, from carved wood to the skins of common animals such as weasels, rabbits, or lambs.
Textile fibres such as linen, wool, and cotton were also used, which were woven and dyed with onion skins or plant juices. For the humbler classes, colors were typically gray or brown, while the wealthier enjoyed a full range of colors, enriched with gold, silver threads, and precious stone inlays.
Types of Medieval Bags: Diversity and Function
The medieval period saw the birth and evolution of various types of medieval bags. Each had a specific function and distinctive design:
- Alms purses: Small pouches, mainly used by the nobility, whose name derives from the custom of carrying money to give to the poor.
- Waist bags (Girdle Purses): These were leather bags with one or two handles on the top, designed to fasten to the belt. Although common for both men and women, the two-handled ones were mostly for men. Their size and design could vary greatly, from simple shapes for peasants and craftsmen to more elaborate designs for the nobility.
- Bags with compartments and internal coin purses: Many waist bags had multiple compartments. The inner panels were often made from finer skins, such as calf or goat, and sometimes complemented with suede or textiles (like linen), which provided elasticity. Small coin purses (Pouchlets) were little pouches sewn inside the compartments, ideal for storing coins.
There is also the backpack, luggage that can be carried on the back by two straps that go over the shoulders. Backpacks are often preferred over bags for transporting heavy loads over long periods of time because the shoulders bear the weight better than the hands, thus relieving the spine from a weight that can harm it.
The Art of Medieval Decoration
Bags, although functional, were also a canvas for artistic expression and status. Decorations on medieval bags, although relatively rare, were elaborate and varied. Techniques included:
- Embossed stamping: Creating medallions or motifs pressed onto the leather, often with wooden molds for possible mass production.
- Engraving and stenciling: Slightly cutting the outline of letters or designs and pressing the surrounding leather to create a raised background. Cryptic inscriptions and the word “AMOURS” have been found.
- Stamped with dies: As in the case of fleur-de-lis or eagles stamped on the suspension loops.
- Figurative designs: Images such as birds (possibly hawks, symbolizing boldness).
- Punched or perforated decoration: Creating patterns by making holes with an awl.
- Low-relief lines: The dampened leather was placed over molds of leather strips, wood, or wire and pressed with bone tools to create a permanent design. Only vegetable-tanned leather could retain these decorations.
These decorations not only embellished the object but also conveyed messages about its owner and position in society. Medieval leather bags were widely used, not just by the nobles, but also by peasants and merchants.
Secrets Revealed by Archaeology
Thanks to archaeological excavations, especially in places with wet, oxygen-free soils like Dordrecht, we have been able to unearth valuable fragments of medieval bags. Although many are found fragmented due to the decomposition of sewing threads, these findings allow us to reconstruct their design and functionality.
For instance, waist bags were made with tough leather (such as cowhide) for the outer parts, and softer leather (calf or goat) for the inner compartments. The union of the different bag parts with the suspension handles was done with a leather trim, and up to four different joining methods have been identified. Some bags also had a flap, which offered extra protection against thieves, though a “professional” could bypass it.
No one doubts that today the bag and the backpack are indispensable for carrying frequently used items such as wallets, coin purses, keys, documents, cell phones, glasses, etc. Saddlebags preceded bags, being more rustic as they were made of cloth, large and square-shaped, because they were used for carrying ceramics, food, and heavy objects.
Purchase and Usage Recommendations
Currently, medieval bags and backpacks are made of leather that beautifully complements medieval costumes for reenactments, parties, and medieval weddings. Medieval leather bags and backpacks are so beautiful and practical that they are often bought today for everyday use, both by men and women. The quality, price, and beauty ratio of a medieval leather bag is excellent, making it an excellent option for those seeking an accessory with history and style.
If you’re looking for an accessory that combines functionality with history and style, don’t hesitate to visit our medieval bags section. You’ll find a wide range of products that will allow you to carry the essence of the Middle Ages into your everyday life, or perfectly complete your outfit for special events. We also invite you to explore other medieval accessories to enrich your historical experience.