Chainmail Manufacturing: A Complete Guide to Weaving, Choosing, and Maintaining Historical Rings

The manufacture of chainmail is a craft that combines history, technique, and patience: an armor made of thousands of intertwined rings that was a protagonist on battlefields and today remains alive in reenactment, LARP, and industrial protection. In this article, you will learn everything from the historical origin of chainmail, through the selection of materials and tools, to a step-by-step guide on how to make rings and weave the famous European 4-in-1 pattern, plus practical maintenance and repair tips.

Why chainmail manufacturing is relevant today

Beyond historical romanticism, chainmail manufacturing has current applications: faithful historical reenactment, light and safe pieces for LARP, protective components for industries (such as butcher’s gloves), and, of course, exhibition pieces. Understanding the technique allows you to choose between authenticity and practicality, decide on materials, closing techniques, and plan the necessary maintenance for the piece to last.

An echo from the past: a brief history of chainmail

The first evidence of metal mesh dates back to approximately the 4th century BC among Celtic cultures; the invention of chainmail is often attributed to the Gauls. The Romans adopted and adapted the idea (the Lorica Hamata), frequently combining stamped rings with riveted or punched rings. In the Middle Ages, weaving specialized, and the 4-in-1 pattern became dominant in much of Europe. A mail shirt could have between 28,000 and 50,000 rings, and its manufacture was a labor that consumed hundreds of hours, which explains why they were so valued and passed down as family heritage.

Selecting the rings: materials, shapes, and closures

The choice of ring type dictates the durability, weight, appearance, and authenticity of the mail. Below is a responsive comparative table with the most common options and their pros and cons.

In addition, the shape of the ring (round or flat) and its inner diameter (ID) determine the density of the weave. A small ID (6 mm) produces a denser and more protective mesh than a larger one (8–9 mm), but requires many more rings and more working time.

Types of closures and their impact on authenticity

Rings are distinguished by their closing technique: butt (unriveted), riveted, punched (solid), or welded. For historical accuracy and maximum strength, riveted rings or those combined with punched rings are the most recommended. Butt rings are quick and economical, useful for light or decorative projects, but are less reliable in demanding use.

Essential tools for making chainmail

Before you begin, gather basic tools: needle-nose pliers, cutting pliers, flat-nose pliers, a mandrel or metal rod for wrapping wire, a hammer, a rivet punch (if riveting), and personal protection (heavy-duty gloves and safety glasses). If you make many rings, a drill that spins the rod speeds up the winding process.

How to make your own rings: step-by-step

If you decide to make rings from wire, follow these basic steps. Remember: safety (glasses and gloves) and consistency are key.

1. Prepare and wrap

Select a metal rod of the desired diameter to obtain the appropriate ID (for example, a 6 mm rod for 6 mm ID rings). Wrap the wire firmly and uniformly around the rod. For mass production, fix the rod in a drill and guide the wire as the rod spins. Secure the end so that the coil does not unwind.

2. Cut the rings

With the coil formed, cut ring by ring with wire cutters or a hacksaw to get a clean cut. Keep your hand steady and use eye protection, as small pieces can fly off. Make sure the ends are as even as possible to facilitate closing or riveting.

3. Close or prepare for riveting

If working with butt rings, close each ring with pliers until the ends touch without edges. If you are going to rivet them, leave an even overlap to place the rivet and hammer it. For punched rings, there is no closing to do, and for welded rings, you will need specialized equipment.

4. Riveting (optional, but recommended)

For greater strength, rivet each ring. Insert a small rivet into the overlap and strike with a hammer and punch until it is firm. Riveting reproduces the most robust historical method and extends the life of the piece.

Weaving the mail: European 4-in-1 pattern and practical tips

The 4-in-1 pattern is the most widespread: each open ring connects four closed rings. Below is a clear method to get started and scale to larger pieces.

• Create the first quintet: open one ring, pass it through four closed rings, and close it, forming a unit of five.
• Expand the weave: add rings to the edges or form several units separately and join them later.
• Join sections: to join two strips, pass an open ring through two lower rings of each section and close it.
• Consistency in orientation: always maintain the same orientation of ring closure so that the pattern is uniform and the garment retains its shape.

Practical tip: in large pieces, orient the rows vertically so that the garment hangs correctly and does not deform under its own weight. Start with a coif, bracelet, or sample collar before tackling a full hauberk.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Common mistakes when making chainmail include: using an unsuitable rod (wood that deforms), cutting rings with very uneven cuts, closing misaligned rings, or mixing incompatible materials. Avoid them by using metal mandrels, sharp tools, and maintaining periodic quality control: review every 100–200 rings and correct any deviations.

Care, maintenance, and storage

A mail shirt requires regular attention. Below is a practical conservation plan:

Routine cleaning

• Dry cleaning: shake and brush to remove dust.
• Wet cleaning: use warm water with mild soap and rinse well.
• Drying: dry completely with towels, air drying, and attention to overlapping areas.

Remove rust and protect

For mild oxidation, brush with a soft wire brush or fine sandpaper. For more advanced rust, use rust converters according to instructions and clean again. Apply a thin layer of protective oil (Ballistol, gun oil, or recommended lubricants) and remove excess so it doesn’t attract dirt.

Oiling and frequency

Oil lightly after each intensive use or at least every 3–6 months if the piece is on display. For long-term storage, apply a more complete protective layer.

Simple repairs

Periodically check for open or broken rings. Remove the damaged ring with pliers, replace it with one of the same material, and close or rivet it. For loose rivets, use a punch and hammer to re-secure the joint.

Proper storage

• Conditions: dry, cool, and ventilated place.
• Containers: fabric bags or wooden boxes; avoid airtight bags.
• Prevent deformation: hang on padded hangers or lay flat.

Safety when working

Use heavy-duty gloves when handling rings and chemicals, work in well-ventilated areas, and maintain good posture to avoid fatigue. If using acid or chemical removers, protect your eyes and skin.

Where to buy and what to expect

If you don’t want to make every ring, in our online store you can purchase pre-assembled rings in different materials, sizes, and closure types. Buying pre-made rings greatly reduces manufacturing time and allows you to focus on weaving and design. For professional projects, riveted or punched rings are recommended; for LARP, aluminum or butt rings may suffice.

Quick comparison: what to choose based on your project

Creating a mail shirt is a task that combines technique, time, and care. If you are interested in starting, practice with small pieces, control the quality of each ring, and plan maintenance from the outset. If you prefer to save time or need specific materials, you can find them in our online store where we offer rings and mail shirts with different finishes and characteristics.

Chainmail is more than an object: it is a lesson in applied engineering, a bridge between ancient crafts and modern uses. Dedication to its manufacture and preservation connects you with generations of artisans and offers you the satisfaction of a piece created entirely with your own hands.

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