Celtic, Viking, And Medieval Bags: History, Symbols, And Manufacturing Techniques

What did a small pouch hanging from the belt tell? In the hands of a warrior, a merchant, or a lady, a bag was more than leather and stitching: it was memory, status, and symbol. From the first leather bags to embroidered purses, the history of Celtic, Viking, and medieval bags unites practicality and art in every thread.

Historical Evolution of Bags: From the Celtic Pouch to the End of the 19th Century

The following chronology highlights milestones that help understand why such a simple accessory came to define fashions, social functions, and artisanal techniques. Observe the journey of the bag through the centuries and how each change in clothing and society transformed its form and role.

Era	Event
Ancient and Early Medieval Period
c. 2000 BC – Iron Age (Celtic peoples)	The Celts (presumed from 2000 BC) used a small leather or sheep’s wool pouch, hung from the belt to store personal belongings (necklaces, bracelets, brooches, facial makeup, etc.).
Middle Ages (Medieval France)	Origin of the châtelaine: the chatelaine, in charge of a castle, carried the keys to the enclosure hanging from her waist by a chain; this practice gave rise to the name of the accessory.
9th Century	The replica of the Birka Bag is based on an original excavated in Birka (Viking), dated to the 9th century. Similar bags were used by Vikings and medieval populations of northern and central Europe; their decoration is inspired by the art of the Magyars.
Transition (17th and 18th Centuries)
For centuries	Both men and women always needed to carry essential items with them.
From the 17th century (Modern Age)	Among the upper classes, the visible need for bags decreased: voluminous garments allowed interior pockets to be concealed (often tied at the waist and independent pieces for ladies).
Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries (The “Reticule”)
Late 18th century (c. 1798–1805)	After the French Revolution, the so-called “chemise dress” emerged: a straight cut, low waist below the bust, and light fabrics that prevented internal pockets, causing a drastic change in women’s fashion.
c. 1795–1820	Recovery of the bag as an essential and exclusive accessory for women. The reticule or “ridículo” (small bag, initially made of net or mesh) emerged, in keeping with the simplicity of the new dress.
Early 19th century	The “chemise dress” was short-lived; decorative elements and heavier fabrics were reincorporated into women’s fashion.
Late 1820s	With the first romantic dress, skirts and sleeves puffed out, once again allowing internal pockets to be concealed; the bag coexisted with these pockets.
The Heyday of the 19th Century (Châtelaine and Purse)
1828	First documented reference to the term châtelaine in a fashion context (London newspaper The World of Fashion) as a waist accessory.
c. 1841 (mid-19th century)	The Industrial Revolution created the need for larger bags. The first women’s handbag (“lady’s travel case”) was commissioned to replace the reticule in daily life.
From the 1860s onwards	Châtelaine bags (suspended from the waist by a chain or ribbon) became popular, especially with the transformation of the female silhouette due to the use of the bustle.
1860–1880 (Spain)	The publication El Correo de la Moda preferred the term limosnera for this type of bag; this term gradually disappeared during the decade.
1868–1888	Period of maximum boom of the bustle fashion, coinciding with the widespread use of châtelaine bags (or escarcela in Spain). The magazine La moda elegante used the term “escarcela” during the 1870s and 1880s.
Towards 1880	The châtelaine-type bag analyzed in the exhibition of the Museo del Traje is dated approximately to this period.
Last third of the 19th century	The bag consolidated as an indispensable female accessory: models, sizes, and ways of carrying them proliferated (hand, shoulder, tied to the waist) and it became a sign of distinction and luxury.
From 1890 onwards	The châtelaine typology began to go out of fashion, being recommended mainly for specific uses (communion dresses, medieval-inspired costumes, etc.).
1900	Although the escarcela still appeared in fashion plates of La moda elegante, there were already reservations about its use in street clothes. In general, the bag had become an indispensable and enduring female accessory.

Materials, Techniques, and Forms: How Bags Were Constructed

The practical knowledge surrounding an ancient bag originated from the availability of materials and the skill of artisans. Leather dominated the scene due to its resistance and ease of working. The most used hides were deer, pig, and other local ungulates, although wool and linen bags are also documented among diverse social strata.

Artisans hand-stitched with single or double stitches, using waxed linen threads to ensure durability. Leather embossing and embroidery with metallic threads transformed a utilitarian object into a prestigious piece. For closures, cords, pins, metal buttons, or bone clasps were used; in northern Europe, Birka-type bags incorporated flaps and reinforced cords.

Characteristic Designs by Culture

When analyzing typologies, a direct relationship between form and function emerges. Here is a clear comparison to guide you on the most visible differences in the bags of each tradition:

Type	Dominant Material	Closure/Shape	Typical Decoration	Common Use
Celtic	Leather and wool	Small pouch hung from the belt	Repoussé, knots, and plant motifs	Personal items, offerings, and ritual symbols
Viking	Tanned leather and suede	Flaps and cords; often reinforced	Animal motifs, braiding, and metal plates	Travel, trade, and daily use items
Medieval (High and Late Middle Ages)	Deer leather, embroidered fabrics	Double cords, châtelaines for nobility	Embroidery, metals, and occasionally gemstones	Storing coins, keys, and small ritual objects

Enduring Technical Characteristics

Hand stitching: reinforced stitches and waxed linen.
Cuts and reinforcements: pieces sewn to protect corners and bag openings.
Decorative finishes: from embossing to metallic threads on noble fabrics.

Symbolism and Motifs: The Visual Language of a Bag

The motifs adorning bags conveyed messages beyond aesthetics. In cultures with oral and symbolic traditions, a triskel, a cross, or a rune could invoke protection, identity, or kinship.

To clarify, the following table summarizes common symbols and their general interpretation within each culture.

Culture	Common Symbols on Bags	General Meaning
Celtic	Celtic Cross, triskel, Celtic knots	Spirituality, balance, eternity, connection with nature
Viking	Valknut, Yggdrasil, three-horned symbol, runes	Protection, divine connection, magic, Norse mythology