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Celtic, Viking, and Medieval Bags: History, Symbols, and Manufacturing Techniques
What did a small pouch hanging from the belt tell? In the hands of a warrior, a merchant, or a lady, a bag was more than leather and stitching: it was memory, status, and symbol. From the first leather bags to embroidered purses, the history of Celtic, Viking, and medieval bags unites practicality and art in every thread.
Historical Evolution of Bags: From the Celtic Pouch to the End of the 19th Century
The following chronology highlights milestones that help understand why such a simple accessory came to define fashions, social functions, and artisanal techniques. Observe the journey of the bag through the centuries and how each change in clothing and society transformed its form and role.
Era
Event
Ancient and Early Medieval Period
c. 2000 BC – Iron Age (Celtic peoples)
The Celts (presumed from 2000 BC) used a small leather or sheep’s wool pouch, hung from the belt to store personal belongings (necklaces, bracelets, brooches, facial makeup, etc.).
Middle Ages (Medieval France)
Origin of the châtelaine: the chatelaine, in charge of a castle, carried the keys to the enclosure hanging from her waist by a chain; this practice gave rise to the name of the accessory.
9th Century
The replica of the Birka Bag is based on an original excavated in Birka (Viking), dated to the 9th century. Similar bags were used by Vikings and medieval populations of northern and central Europe; their decoration is inspired by the art of the Magyars.
Transition (17th and 18th Centuries)
For centuries
Both men and women always needed to carry essential items with them.
From the 17th century (Modern Age)
Among the upper classes, the visible need for bags decreased: voluminous garments allowed interior pockets to be concealed (often tied at the waist and independent pieces for ladies).
Late 18th and Early 19th Centuries (The “Reticule”)
Late 18th century (c. 1798–1805)
After the French Revolution, the so-called “chemise dress” emerged: a straight cut, low waist below the bust, and light fabrics that prevented internal pockets, causing a drastic change in women’s fashion.
c. 1795–1820
Recovery of the bag as an essential and exclusive accessory for women. The reticule or “ridículo” (small bag, initially made of net or mesh) emerged, in keeping with the simplicity of the new dress.
Early 19th century
The “chemise dress” was short-lived; decorative elements and heavier fabrics were reincorporated into women’s fashion.
Late 1820s
With the first romantic dress, skirts and sleeves puffed out, once again allowing internal pockets to be concealed; the bag coexisted with these pockets.
The Heyday of the 19th Century (Châtelaine and Purse)
1828
First documented reference to the term châtelaine in a fashion context (London newspaper The World of Fashion) as a waist accessory.
c. 1841 (mid-19th century)
The Industrial Revolution created the need for larger bags. The first women’s handbag (“lady’s travel case”) was commissioned to replace the reticule in daily life.
From the 1860s onwards
Châtelaine bags (suspended from the waist by a chain or ribbon) became popular, especially with the transformation of the female silhouette due to the use of the bustle.
1860–1880 (Spain)
The publication El Correo de la Moda preferred the term limosnera for this type of bag; this term gradually disappeared during the decade.
1868–1888
Period of maximum boom of the bustle fashion, coinciding with the widespread use of châtelaine bags (or escarcela in Spain). The magazine La moda elegante used the term “escarcela” during the 1870s and 1880s.
Towards 1880
The châtelaine-type bag analyzed in the exhibition of the Museo del Traje is dated approximately to this period.
Last third of the 19th century
The bag consolidated as an indispensable female accessory: models, sizes, and ways of carrying them proliferated (hand, shoulder, tied to the waist) and it became a sign of distinction and luxury.
From 1890 onwards
The châtelaine typology began to go out of fashion, being recommended mainly for specific uses (communion dresses, medieval-inspired costumes, etc.).
1900
Although the escarcela still appeared in fashion plates of La moda elegante, there were already reservations about its use in street clothes. In general, the bag had become an indispensable and enduring female accessory.
Materials, Techniques, and Forms: How Bags Were Constructed
The practical knowledge surrounding an ancient bag originated from the availability of materials and the skill of artisans. Leather dominated the scene due to its resistance and ease of working. The most used hides were deer, pig, and other local ungulates, although wool and linen bags are also documented among diverse social strata.
Artisans hand-stitched with single or double stitches, using waxed linen threads to ensure durability. Leather embossing and embroidery with metallic threads transformed a utilitarian object into a prestigious piece. For closures, cords, pins, metal buttons, or bone clasps were used; in northern Europe, Birka-type bags incorporated flaps and reinforced cords.
Characteristic Designs by Culture
When analyzing typologies, a direct relationship between form and function emerges. Here is a clear comparison to guide you on the most visible differences in the bags of each tradition:
Type
Dominant Material
Closure/Shape
Typical Decoration
Common Use
Celtic
Leather and wool
Small pouch hung from the belt
Repoussé, knots, and plant motifs
Personal items, offerings, and ritual symbols
Viking
Tanned leather and suede
Flaps and cords; often reinforced
Animal motifs, braiding, and metal plates
Travel, trade, and daily use items
Medieval (High and Late Middle Ages)
Deer leather, embroidered fabrics
Double cords, châtelaines for nobility
Embroidery, metals, and occasionally gemstones
Storing coins, keys, and small ritual objects
Enduring Technical Characteristics
Hand stitching: reinforced stitches and waxed linen.
Cuts and reinforcements: pieces sewn to protect corners and bag openings.
Decorative finishes: from embossing to metallic threads on noble fabrics.
Symbolism and Motifs: The Visual Language of a Bag
The motifs adorning bags conveyed messages beyond aesthetics. In cultures with oral and symbolic traditions, a triskel, a cross, or a rune could invoke protection, identity, or kinship.
To clarify, the following table summarizes common symbols and their general interpretation within each culture.
Culture
Common Symbols on Bags
General Meaning
Celtic
Celtic Cross, triskel, Celtic knots
Spirituality, balance, eternity, connection with nature
Today’s availability of replicas allows for the study of proportions, assembly methods, and aesthetics without losing authenticity. A medieval bag with rivets, for example, reveals solutions for reinforcing stress points: a wide flap, a central rivet, and a simple lining that distributes weight.
Use in Daily Life and Ceremonies
In daily life, the bag organized the day: coins, tobacco, utensils, and amulets. But in ceremonial contexts, it was adorned with motifs that reinforced the wearer’s identity: colors, metallic threads, or dangling pieces that were visible during celebrations and rites.
Maintenance and Practical Restoration
Noble materials require simple but regular care. For leather: cleaning with a dry cloth, treatments with natural oils in small quantities, and avoiding prolonged contact with moisture. For fabrics: dry cleaning or gentle washing, and immediate repair of stitching points to prevent a tear from worsening.
Repair: use waxed linen thread and long stitches for reinforcement.
Conservation: store in a dry place and avoid stacking heavy objects on top.
Ethical restoration: prioritize reversible techniques and materials compatible with the original.
How to Interpret a Historical Bag: Clues That Tell Stories
A bag tells a lot if you know how to read it. Observe the direction of the embossing, the type of cord, and the quality of the stitching. A worn flap in the center indicates intensive use; a silky lining points to an affluent origin. Metallic embellishments are usually related to closure functions and decorative intent: signs that the object was also a display of status.
The Bag in the Transition to Modernity
When garments began to incorporate pockets, the object evolved: it went from being indispensable and visible to complementary and sometimes ornamental. However, the persistence of traditions like the châtelaine and the purse shows that the bag continued to be a symbol of identity and beauty for centuries.
Legacy and Contemporary Reinterpretation
Today, artisans are recovering traditional techniques to create pieces that serve both in historical reenactments and in modern life. The interest in material traceability and sustainable methods has driven a reinterpretation that respects the original aesthetic without sacrificing current functionality.
Quick Comparison: Choosing a Style for Your Reenactment
If you participate in reenactments or seek design inspiration, this list helps you make decisions consistent with each cultural context.
For a Celtic setting: opt for leather pouches with organic embossing and earth tones.
For a Viking setting: choose tanned leathers, reinforced flaps, and discreet metallic decorations.
For High Medieval: combine leather with embroidered fabrics and double cords; the châtelaine adds authenticity for noble female roles.
A Final Look at Social Significance
An ancient bag was not just a container: it was a microcosm that reflected economy, technology, and symbolism. At weddings, as a status gift; in daily life, a working ally; in rituals, a support for beliefs. Understanding this dimension will allow you to appreciate and reproduce these pieces with historical accuracy.
Today, when you hold a bag inspired by Celtic, Viking, or medieval traditions, you hold centuries of utility and beauty. Every stitch and every symbol connect you to a past where form followed function, and ornamentation spoke of who you were.
The practical knowledge surrounding an ancient bag originated from the availability of materials and the skill of artisans. Leather dominated the scene due to its resistance and ease of working. The most used hides were deer, pig, and other local ungulates, although wool and linen bags are also documented among diverse social strata.
In daily life, the bag organized the day: coins, tobacco, utensils, and amulets. But in ceremonial contexts, it was adorned with motifs that reinforced the wearer’s identity: colors, metallic threads, or dangling pieces that were visible during celebrations and rites.
